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In the months of April and May, many tourists will flock to Keukenhof for the spectacular flower arrangements. But there is an equally impressive alternative. It’s totally free, not crowded with tourists and is really picturesque; the Dutch tulip fields.

When do the tulips bloom in Holland?

The Dutch Tulip fields come alive with colour between late March and May. The exact date is not easy to predict because it is influenced by various factors such as the weather.  Many of the growers in Holland stagger the planting of bulbs.  This ensures a continuous supply of flowers throughout the blooming season and means that you’re likely to see a colourful display in spring. Furthermore, growers will sometimes plant the bulbs at different depths in order to prolong the flowering period.

Where can I see the Dutch tulip fields?

If you’re familiar with the song Tulips from Amsterdam, you might be wondering where to find these Tulips in the city. Although Amsterdam does have a flower market in the centre, this mainly sells tourist gifts and flower bulbs.  So if you’re looking for Tulip fields near Amsterdam, you need to take a short train ride from Central Station to Hillegom.  The trains to Hillegom run frequently and the journey takes about 30 minutes. You’ll also pass through the city of Haarlem on the way which is also worth a visit.

As you pull into the station at Hillegom the bulb fields are immediately visible. I noticed that the commuters on the train pay little attention and are looking down at their mobile phones. Tourists, on the other hand, can easily be spotted on the train. They are gazing out of the window snapping photos and filming the colourful eye-catching scenes.

The first thing I noticed stepping out of the train, was the beautiful aroma of the flowers. It was a strong scent which was carried by the wind blowing from the other side of the station. The smell was intense, much like walking into a florist.  The area surrounding the station is dominated by flower growing companies and small residential areas. Also nearby, is the Royal General Bulb Growers’ Association (KAVB). The train station itself is really small but has a huge bike parking facility. According to the NS website, it is possible to hire bikes, but I couldn’t see any available.

Where are tulip fields in Hillegom?

I found three fields which were in bloom when I visited. These were all within a few minutes walk from the train station. I’m sure you’ll have no problem finding them, but here’s a map just in case:

Access to the tulip fields

There are no fences to prevent you from entering the fields and there are no “keep out” signs. So I took a walk along the perimeter of the fields taking a few photos as I continued to explore. My approach was to keep a short distance from the flowers to avoid causing any damage.

 

Pick your own tulips?

Whilst it is not possible to pick flowers from the tulip fields, there is an alternative in Hillegom. Annemieke’s Picking Garden in Hillegom is open daily between 9:00 and 17:00. There are tulips in the spring and a wide variety of cut flowers during the summer months.

Other Attractions

Every year, there is a flower parade which passing through the nearby towns, including Hillegom. This colourful procession called Bloemencorso travels through its main streets.

Have you also discovered some great places to see tulips growing in Holland?  If so, please share in the comments below.

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Portuguese Synagogue in Amsterdam

The beautiful Portuguese Synagogue is one of the most important legacies of the vibrant Jewish community in Amsterdam. Until the Holocaust, Jews made up more than 10% of the population of Amsterdam. During the 16th and 17th century, many Jews that faced persecution in Spain and Portugal fled to Amsterdam. The religious tolerance they enjoyed in the Dutch Republic was unheard of in the rest of Europe. The Amsterdam Sephardic community became one of the largest and richest Jewish communities in Europe during the Dutch Golden Age, and their very large synagogue reflected this.

The Entrance

There is an inscription in Hebrew above the entrance that refers to Psalm 5:8 “In the abundance of Thy lovingkindness will I come into Thy house”. There is also reference to the date 1672 which is an interesting curiosity. This was the year in which the synagogue was supposed to be ready. However, due to the war in 1672 which was “The Year of Disaster” it was not possible to finish the construction.

History of the Portuguese Synagogue

The Sephardic Jews who settled in Amsterdam in the late 16th century commissioned Elias Baumans and Daniel Stalpaert to design the synagogue. It was to be the biggest in the world and was inspired by the architecture of the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem. Like many of the buildings in Amsterdam, its foundations consist of wooden piles driven into the ground. They started building in 1671 and in 1675 the Portuguese Synagogue opened. It cost the community around 186,000 florins. Minor restorations have been made, but the synagogue still looks pretty much the same as 340 years ago.

Architecture of the Portuguese Synagogue

The architecture shows the self-confidence and wealth of the Jewish community in Amsterdam. It was the largest synagogue of its time and one of the biggest buildings in Amsterdam. A model of the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem provided inspiration for the architects. Around the main building, there are various offices and archives, the rabbinate, a mortuary and the Ets Haim (Tree of Life) library that holds valuable collections of Sephardic manuscripts.

Interior of the Portuguese Synagogue

The Interior of the Portuguese Synagogue is the longitudinal Iberian-Sephardic type. The Holy Ark which is situated in the South East corner faces Jerusalem. The Tebah stands on the other side of the room opposite the ark. The service is led from the Tebah.

Interior of the Portuguese Synagogue

The interior of the synagogue is lit by 1000 candles held in two enormous brass chandeliers. Additional light streams through the 72 windows. The upper section of the synagogue is the women’s gallery which is supported by twelve stone columns. These represent the twelve tribes of Israel.

Opening hours for visitors

It is open to the public and guided tours can be arranged in advance. Note that the synagogue is closed on Saturdays.
April 1 – October 31: Sunday till Friday 10.00 – 16.00 hrs.
November 1 – March 31: Sunday until Thursday 10.00 – 16.00. Friday 10.00 – 14.00.
For more information visit the Jewish Cultural Quarter website.

The Winter Synagogue

The area surrounding the main building also includes a winter synagogue with central heating and electric lighting. This is the site of the congregation’s regular weekly services and was created during the 1955–1959 renovation in the former Etz Hayim seminary auditorium.

Location

The Portuguese Synagogue is located in the centre of Amsterdam near Waterlooplein.

Address: Mr. Visserplein 3, 1011 RD Amsterdam

Photo Tips

– Cameras are permitted and photos are possible but flash photography is not allowed
– Larger camera bags are not permitted in the Jewish Cultural Museum

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Singel

The Singel canal served as a moat around the city between 1480 and 1585. It is the innermost of four canals which make up the Grachtengordel, which is recognised as a world heritage site by UNESCO.

Herengracht

Dating back to 1613, Herengracht was created along with Keizersgracht & Prinsengracht as part of the city’s expansion. Later, The Golden Bend was added and became a symbol of the wealth of Amsterdam’s Golden Age.

Keizergracht

The widest of the four Grachtengordel canals is named after Emperor Maximilian of Austria. It is home to historic buildings the Rode Hoed, Syrian Orthodox Church, Felix Meritis, City Archive and Museum van Loon.

Prinsengracht

Prinsengracht (Prince’s Canal) is the fourth and the longest of the main canals in Amsterdam.  The Noorderkerk church, Noordermarkt market,  Anne Frank House, and the Westerkerk can all be found on Prinsengracht.

Brouwersgracht

The Brouwersgracht canal dates back to 1594 and owes its name to the many breweries which could be found here in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.  The canal boathouses, bridges and warehouses with bright red shutters make this a very picturesque area.

Reguliersgracht

Reguliersgracht canal passing through the Herengracht, Keizergracht & Prinsengracht is perhaps most picturesque and tranquil locations for taking photos. Along this canal, are the Amstelkerk church, midwife’s house, carpenter’s house and bridge-of-fifteen bridges.

Leliegracht

The canal was formed in 1612 when the canal-ring was dug. On the side of Prinsengracht, the remnants of a lock can be seen. This was used to manage the lower water levels in Prinsengracht and the higher levels of the water in Leliegracht, Keizersgracht and Herengracht.

Blauwburgwal

Blauwburgwal is Amsterdam shortest canal connecting the Singel and Herengracht canals. During WWII this peaceful canal was the scene of great devastation when a German bomb landed on the corner of Herengracht. Fourteen buildings were destroyed and forty-four people lost their lives.

Groenburgwal

Groenburgwal connects Raamgracht with the river Amstel and was a part of the city which produced textiles. Picturesque view of the canal together with Zuiderkerk was painted captured by Monet in 1874. The building which is home to the English Episcopal Church was renovated in 1827 making it one of the first neo-Gothic churches in the Netherlands.

Squares

Dam Square

Rembrandtplein

Leidseplein

Museumplein

Waterlooplein

Muntplein

Nieuwmarkt

Noordermarkt

Spui

Art

Rembrandt

Van Gogh

Timeline

Galerie Mokum

Glaswerkplaats

Music

Tours

Walking Tours

Bike Tours

Bus Tours

Canal Tours

History

Canals

Monuments

Timeline

People

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Sinterklaas.

The Sint or Saint Nicolas is a tradition going back hundreds of years, even before The Netherlands formally existed as a country. Consequently, it is also celebrated in Belgium, Luxembourg and parts of Northern France. The festivities begin with the arrival of the Sinterklaas on a steamboat accompanied by his white horse Amerigo and colourful helpers. On 5 December, the eve of St Nicholas day presents are left at the door for children. Adults exchange small gifts and carefully prepared poems for one another.

Santa Kerstman.

Santa Claus is a modern reinvention of Saint Nicholas. One theory is that he was introduced to America by Dutch or English Protestant settlers as an alternative to the Catholic Sint.

Family gatherings.

The Dutch celebrate Christmas over two days: 25 and 26 December, described as First and Second Christmas Day. In the Netherlands, these two days are spent with family, singing carols, playing games, watching movies, reading Christmas tales and indulging in holiday feasts. The family is a priority for the Dutch, and this is seen over the Christmas period. December 25 and 26 are public holidays in The Netherlands, but unlike other countries, these are not carried forward if they fall on the weekend.

The birth of Jesus Christ.

Nativity scenes can be seen in shop displays as well as churches throughout December. Many Dutch residents will attend church on Christmas Eve night and Christmas Day. There is also a good selection of services in English in Amsterdam.

Food and drink.

Part of what makes a “traditional” Dutch Christmas is the food consumed at this time of year. Christmas stollen (round bread with currents and raisins), Almond pastry rings, and Chocolate “Christmas rings”. Oliebollen, which Is similar to a doughnut, are available over the Christmas period but are traditionally a New Year’s Day treat.

Christmas markets

Popular all over Northern Europe. Large cities like Amsterdam have many permanent and temporary Christmas markets during the festive season. Typically the stalls are set up in wooden cabins with ambient lighting. They are manned by independent traders selling specialist food, clothing & gifts.  The markets in Holland also have a Gebakkraam, a mobile catering trailer parked in busy areas of the city selling deep-fried specialities such as Oliebollen and Appelflappen.

Christmas Trees

The decorated Christmas tree has become widely popular, having been introduced to the Netherlands in the 19th century. Trees can be seen in shops, offices, homes and public spaces such as Dam Square in Amsterdam.

Christmas Lights

Lights start to appear in shopping streets in mid-November – for Sinterklaas and remain through Christmas & New Year until January.

Giving of gifts

Gifts are exchanged amongst friends and family members for both the Sinterklaas and Christmas festivities. Employers give employees a Christmas box (Kerstpakket) containing food and small gifts. You’ll see many people carrying these home in the rush hour commutes leading up to Christmas.

Christmas decorations

The decorations which are specific to Christmas, such as trees, advent candles, stars and wreaths, will appear after Sinterklaas. Many people leave up their outdoor lights throughout the winter.

Advent calendars & candles

The advent wreath is placed in the living room with four red or yellow candles. The first candle is lit on Advent Sunday and an additional candle is lit each subsequent Sunday. Children enjoy the days leading up to Christmas with Advent calendars. Each calendar contains 25 chocolates, one for each day in the December run-up to Christmas.

Christmas music.

Christmas music can be heard on the radio. Again, this will never be heard before Sinterklaas. SkyRadio calls itself “The Christmas Station” and plays a comprehensive selection- no DJs taking, just music and ads. Carols are sung in churches – mostly the week before Christmas. Many of the carols will sound familiar as they are translations of the English version.

Christmas cards.

Christmas cards are less popular now but can still be found in the main stores. Just like other countries, people are choosing to send greetings online instead.

HOLIDAY SEASON TIMELINE

Mid-October – Shopping street lighting goes up
Mid-November – Arrival of Sinterklaas
End November – Christmas markets & Outdoor skating
4th Sunday before Christmas – Advent
1 December – Advent calendar
5 December – Sinterklaas / present giving
6 December – Saint Nicholas
7 December – Christmas decorations
24 December – Christmas Eve
25 December – Christmas Day
31 December – New Years’s Eve
1 January – New Year’s Day
6 January – Christmas decorations come down

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Light festivals are increasing in popularity all around the world. They transform cities and act as a catalyst to inspire both residents and visitors.
The boat tour takes visitors through Oosterdok, Nieuwe Herengracht, the river Amstel, Herengracht & Brouwersgracht. The official boat tour sponsor is Stromma but all the main canal boat companies run the same route. The start and end point of the tours is situated just in front of the central train station. Tickets are in the region of €20 for an adult. Photographers may find it frustrating trying to shoot night-time photos from the canal boat. They don’t remain still at each exhibit and you have the added challenge of shooting through closed windows. Most of these exhibits can be experienced on foot from the banks & bridges of the canals. Therefore, serious photographers should also make time to explore the boat route on foot or by bike.

The walking route is more compact than the boat tour route. The exhibits are set in the Plantage part of the city centre. The Illuminade artworks include projections onto historical buildings, installations on the street and displays in public parks. Some of the exhibits such as Triangolini by Charles Eames invite participation from members of the public. The metro from Amsterdam central station to Waterlooplein will take you to the heart of Illuminade.

The Amsterdam Light Festival first started in 2012. It is a joint venture between the cultural institutions, local government, knowledge institutes and businesses in Amsterdam. It has been granted charitable status and received further income from crowdfunding. It’s also made possible by the many volunteers who work enthusiastically day & night.

Add some light and warmth to the cold winter nights and experience these unique illuminated artworks in person. Also, check out visitors photos on Instagram with the hashtag #amsterdamlightfestival.

photo tips

• If possible, use a tripod. The shutter speed will be lower than usual and a tripod will minimise lens movement resulting in a sharper photo.
• Use the timer function. The slight movement caused by manually pressing shutter release button can cause blurry photos.
• Use manual focus. Autofocus can struggle in low-light conditions because they work on the basis of contrast. Use the LiveView mode and focus manually.
• Camera Settings. With a tripod, use a low ISO such as 200 to minimise noise. As a starting point, set the aperture to around F11. With no tripod, raise the ISO and increase the aperture (eg f3.5) to give a faster shutter speed.
• Clean the lens and remove any filters. This will prevent any flare or reflections.
• Shoot in RAW mode so that you can make adjustments in editing software such as Lightroom.
• Fully charge your batteries and bring spares. Batteries lose their charge faster in low temperatures.
• Wrap up warm! Amsterdam can be cold in December and January.
• Stay safe – be aware of your surroundings and watch out for cyclists and other traffic. Take extra care near the edges of canals!

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A recent survey of tourists found that wandering through the city along the canals of Amsterdam is one of their favourite activities. These canals are an important historic and defining feature. As a result, in 2010 the Canal Ring (Grachtengordel) was recognised by UNESCO as a world-acclaimed monument.

How many canals & bridges are there in Amsterdam?

Amsterdam, also known as “Venice of the North”, has 165 canals. The total length of these canals is 50km which is about 31 miles. The most prominent canals are Herengracht, Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht & Singel.  There are 1281 bridges in Amsterdam. Magere Brug and Blauwbrug best-known bridges whilst Torensluis is the oldest.

Why are there so many canals in Amsterdam?

Before Amsterdam's canals & houses were built, the area was mostly swampland. The swamps were systematically drained one section at a time which created islands surrounded by canals. This approach is a typical Dutch can system where the waterway is a means of transport, water management and irrigation. Additionally, the canals formed part of the city's military defence.

Who built the canals in Amsterdam?

In the 16th and 17th century, a body of Lords (Dutch; heren regeerders) governed Amsterdam. These people were the wealthy long-term residents of the city who managed various aspects of the city's life. They invested heavily in the development of the canals. The first of these canals, Herengracht is named after these regents.

Why do the main canals form circular arcs rather than straight lines?

The city grew outwards from the centre around 1640. The canals are man-made and the arc shape to some extent reflects the shape of the centre as the city extended outwards. The unique architecture of the Canal Ring is an expression of the Amsterdam's economic success during the Golden Age.

When were the canal houses in Amsterdam built?

The canal houses in the centre for mostly built in the 16th and 17th centuries. The construction year can often be seen on the front of the house. Furthermore, the type of roof gable will often give a clue concerning the age of the house.

Who lives in the big canal houses?

Rich merchants once occupied the larger canal houses, while today these are mostly used by businesses or sub-divided into exclusive residential apartments. Visiting Museum Van Loon allows you to see what a canal house would have originally looked like on the inside.

 

Museum Van Loon

Why are Amsterdam's canal houses leaning?

Many of the canal houses were purposely built so that they leant forward. This enabled heavy or large goods to be winched to upper floors without hitting windows on the way up. However, the buildings which lean sideways have been affected by subsidence. The soft ground and failure of wooden foundation piles over the years caused the building to lean.

How does a canal house cost?

The price of a canal house in Amsterdam depends on the size and location. The starting price is around €1,200,000 and they typically sell for around €2,500,000. Again, websites like Funda provide up-to-date information. Some of the more exclusive properties are not advertised online.

Do the Amsterdam canals contain salt water or fresh water?

The canals in contain both salt water and fresh water; The salt water enters the cities canals via the Noordzeekanaal, which connect Amsterdam with IJmuiden. The fresh water flows from the river Rhine, via the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal.

How clean is the water in the canals?

The canal water is getting cleaner each year, although the sewerage from many of the houseboats flows directly into the canals.  As a result, it is officially not considered safe for swimming. However, each year the Amsterdam City Swim takes place to raise money for charity -  so it's reasonably hygienic! The government organisation Waternet ensures that the water is as clean as possible by tackling causes of pollution. Three times a week, the canal gates are opened in order to refresh the water. Additionally, they fish out 12,000-15,000 bikes from the canals each year.

Photo by Gerben van Heijningen / CC BY

How deep are the canals of Amsterdam?

Typically the depth of the canals is between two and three meters. The canals are not tidal which means the level of the water is fairly consistent. The water level is regulated by Waternet and is normally 40cm below NAP, which is a national benchmark for measuring water levels. The locals joke that in the canals of Amsterdam are three meters deep; one meter of water, one meter of mud and one meter of bikes.

Do the canals ever freeze in Amsterdam?

Yes. Freezing temperatures for a few days in a row will probably mean that the canals start to freeze over. However, it needs to stay sub-zero for at least a week before walking and skating on the canal is possible. If this looks likely, the city council will cordon off selected canals from water traffic, so that the ice can form. The last time this happened was back in 2012.

Photo by Saskia Bosch van Rosenthal / CC BY

Which canal tour in Amsterdam is the best?

There are over 120 different canal cruise operators in Amsterdam.  Broadly speaking, you have the choice of self hire, private hire or large commercial operators.  The self-hire and private hire companies are dotted all around the city. The larger companies such as Lovers, Blue Boat & Hop On Hop Off all have bases near Central station and stop at main attractions such as Anne Frank house, Rijksmuseum and The Heineken Experience.

For the adventurous and fun-loving, there is the option to hire a pedal boat (also known as a Pedal Bike or Pedalo) from Stromma. This costs around 10 euro which also makes it the cheapest way to experience the canals.

To find out which option is best for you, check out the latest reviews on Tripadvisor.

Do you need a license to use a boat?

If you own a boat and moor it in the city, you need a license from government organisation Waternet. Furthermore, boats which are longer than 12m long are prohibited from mooring in Amsterdam.  As for rules when using the canals, there's no Highway Code as such, but a speed limit of 7.5km per hour is in place.

How much does a canal boathouse cost?

The starting prices for houseboats in Amsterdam is around €280,000 and websites such as Funda and Marktplaats give up-to-date prices. In total, there are approximately 2,500 houseboats in Amsterdam.

Which one of Amsterdam's canals do you think is the most pictoresque? Please share in the comments below.

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Boat Route

10:00 Sinterklaas arrives in Amsterdam and can be seen first at Omval
10:15 Weesperzijde
10:25 Ceintuurbaan
10:30 Sarphatistraat
10:45 Amstelsluizen near Theater Carré
10:55 Nieuwe Herengracht
11:05 Entrepotdok
11:30 Arrival at the Maritime Museum (Scheepvaartmuseum)

Walking Route

12.30 Sinterklaas leaves the Scheepvaartmuseum in the direction of Prins Hendrikkade
13:10 Sinterklaas arrives at the Dam.

The procession continues. Sinterklaas will rejoin the end of the procession after a short program on Dam square.

13:35 Muntplein
13.45 Vijzelstraat – Keizersgracht
13:55 Weteringcircuit
14:10 Leidseplein
14:55 The end of the procession and Sinterklaas arrive at Leidseplein
15.10 Sinterklaas gives a speech from the steps of Stadsschouwburg

location

photo tips

Iconic Sinterklaas photographic subjects:
– The Sint
– Zwarte Piet (black-faced man dressed up like a 17th-century page)
– Pepernoten
– Chocolate letters
– Mandarin oranges
– Almond pastry
– The Steam Boat
– The Sint’s horse
– Shoe with a carrot

– Protesters!! Sinterklaas festival is becoming more controversial as Zwarte Piet is perceived by some as racist.

Photo credits: Pablo, Melalouise, Fred Clausen, Brian Fitzgerald

For Dutch speakers, check out the Official Sinterklaas Site with more information about Sinterklaas Arrival Amsterdam 2014

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